Mary Katrantzou Resort 2026

Dec 8, 2025

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For Resort 2026, Mary Katrantzou explores different notions of camouflage, transforming the natural instinct to conceal into a bold, high-vibrational language of colour, illusion, and metamorphosis. The collection amplifies nature’s patterns into radiant chromatic expressions that both disguise and reveal. Optical illusion plays a pivotal role: inspired by marine artist Norman Wilkinson’s black-and-white dazzle ship stripes and the fluid, blown-glass sculptures of Dale Chihuly, graphic lines from Katrantzou’s Spring/Summer 2010 archive are reimagined across black velvet, sprayed with prismatic iridescence and rendered in intricate beaded embroideries, creating a visual twist that continuously shifts across the figure. Throughout, the familiar becomes fantastical.

A single feather is magnified into a monumental projection that glides over the body in chameleon-like ombrés, while butterfly wings dissolve into cascades of plumes, turning elements of the natural world into surreal illusions that hide in plain sight. This season’s prints deepen the camouflage narrative. Camofolia elevates autumnal foliage into saturated, painterly swirls where bird wings, leaves, and soft white flowers merge into one another, creating a reinterpretation of nature’s concealment. Designed to mix and match across day separates, the story spans pink parakeet, green parrot, and blue peacock hues intended to be styled tonally or in vibrant contrast. Luxurious velvets, failles, and ruched tulles add multidimensional depth to the prints.

The eveningwear is anchored by The Plumarie Story, where hand-placed fans of feathers and dramatic single plumes contour the female form, sculpting shadows and highlights through ombré dégradés. Warm berries, cherries, aubergines, and sherbet pinks collide with petrol, viridian, and deep teals, echoing the chameleon’s shifting palette. This dialogue continues in The Plumarie Jacquard, a revival of a 2018 archival weave now illuminated in metallic gold, fuchsia, and emerald lamé threads. The feathered brocade, woven in Italy, enriches classic silhouettes such as full skirts and fishtail gowns..

At the core of the season stands Vitreous Zebra, a bold re-envisioning of an archival Spring/Summer 2010 print. Collaging imagery from sculptural glass, the artwork forms a trompe l’oeil zebra illusion, an ultimate camouflage where transparency, twist, and reflection merge. Sleek black gowns and mini dresses are accentuated with embroidery tracing the silhouettes of blown-glass objets d’art, their soft, undulating lines fanning across the body like illuminated contours.

Rounding out the collection, Splendesco, from the Latin to brighten and shine, translates camouflage into a bedazzled spectrum. Intricate rainbow hued compositions of gemstones and beads shift across black velvet, forming zebra-like stripes that shimmer between warm and cool tonalities. The result is a high-contrast ode to nature’s brilliance, refracted through the lens of precision engineered craftsmanship.

With Resort 2026, Mary Katrantzou celebrates the poetry of transformation, where camouflage becomes spectacle, illusion becomes identity, and the natural world is reimagined with vibrant, otherworldly intensity.