On a Friday evening in June, in North Bund Bay, Shanghai, Hermès unveils the second chapter of its fall-winter 2025 collection by Nadège Vanhée, Artistic Director of Women’s Ready-to-Wear.
Held on the waterfront, set inside an ephemeral, modular construction, the show initiates a dialogue with both its natural and man-made surroundings. Panels pivot, offering glimpses of Lujiazui’s futuristic skyline, its towers illuminated by colourful lights, while the emblematic Huangpu River reflects the energy of this vibrant metropolis: a city of transformation and paradox, poised between heritage and innovation.
Rooted in urban life yet drawn to the natural world, the collection evokes a protagonist of understated strength, effortless allure and subtle complexity. A cosmopolitan explorer, whose wardrobe represents a rich cross-pollination of tradition and modernity, function and beauty. Layers of meaning blur the lines between sophistication and protective essentials. Like woven strands, references intertwine with a considered approach to fashion, resulting in a functional new silhouette that is equally versatile and sleek.
At the heart of the collection lies the braid — an enduring house signature and a timeless symbol of connection and continuity across cultures. Inspired by equestrian plaits and drawn from the asymmetrical graphics of the Dressage Tressage silk carré by Virginie Jamin, the motif returns with a renewed spirit. At once emblem and narrative, here it takes on a modernist expression, weaving a joyful tale shaped by craftsmanship, imagination, and inventive engineering.
Classical codes are transformed through kaleidoscopic arrangements of function, shape, colour and print. Modular configurations allow clothes to adapt to the movement of everyday life with a fold, a turn, a zip. Building on the house’s elemental equestrian blanket, sumptuous poncho sweaters and fluid, enveloping coats are reimagined in double-faced cashmere, at times lined with Dressage Tressage panels that may be removed depending on the occasion or climate.
Archetypes are invigorated with high craft and a sporty, outdoorsy vocabulary, their technical features enhanced by textural elements such as cord embellishments on collars, quilted leathers, contrast braiding on knits and weaves that recall French bistro chairs.
A palette evoking the natural landscape balances rich, earthy tones inspired by the equestrian universe with warm reds and fiery oranges tempered by soft lilac, clay white and inky blue.
Zippers and fastenings transform garments into expressions of empowerment and endless possibilities. Charged with confident sensuality, silhouettes become a gesture, a medium that enchants through intention, composition and movement.
Following the show, North Bund Bay transforms from a runway into a party venue, featuring a surprise musical performance and an installation around the concept of colour as a sensory experience.
